Materials List

Thank you for purchasing the Super Sport Stainless Steel Exhaust system for your Jaguar. This system will improve the power output, sound and performance of your XJS without any negative effect on your emissions control system. Each component has been carefully chosen to provide the highest quality with the best flow possible in a 50-state legal system.

Important Pre-Installation Notes: In order to mandrel bend stainless tubing, your exhaust pipes were filled and coated with heavy grease. The residue from this grease will cause a brief period of smoking both from the outside (which can be removed with solvent) and from the inside of the system. You should expect this system to smoke slightly until this light coating of grease burns off.

The extreme temperatures reached by your system will turn some of your pipes golden bronze after a brief period of operation. This discoloration is normal.

Your New Super Sport is 50-state smog legal and should pass all current emissions control testing.


Steps for installation:

1. Remove old exhaust system. Make sure that the manifold to exhaust mating surface is clean and free of oil, rust or debris. A thin surface coat of rust is expected.
2. Remove small heat shield just below steering knuckle.
3. Set aside manifold stud nuts for use when re-installing system. If any of the studs were removed with the nuts, secure the shoulder of the stud in a vice, remove the nut and replace stud in the proper hole, using a penetrating lubricant to ease reinsertion.

Installation Note: Never secure stud by putting vice jaws directly on the threaded portion of the stud. Secure by shoulder only.

4. Place Exhaust Flange Gaskets on the RH Downpipe, making sure that the beveled side faces the manifold. Set downpipe against the right side manifold and thread on four nuts. Do not tighten completely until all four nuts have been successfully started!

Installation Tip: A small ring of duct tape can be used to hold the flanges up when placing the downpipes. This will keep the from continually falling down while trying to start stud nuts. To do this, wipe the pipe clean of grease with a degreasing agent. Fold a short length of duct tape until only about one half inch of adhesive is still showing. Now push the flange into position, checking approximate orientation, and wrap the tape around the pipe. Repeat with second flange. Once installed a long screw driver can be used to remove the tape.

5. Once started, tighten four nuts, making sure that the outlet pipe (where it intersects the Connector Pipe) is horizontal and level. This will be your reference point for placing the LH downpipe.
6. Place Exhaust Flange Gaskets on the LH Downpipe, making sure that the beveled side faces the manifold. Set downpipe against the left side manifold and thread on four nuts. Do not tighten completely until all four nuts have been successfully started! Once all nuts have been started, hold upward pressure at the catalytic converted, insuring that the outlet pipe is horizontal and level. You may now tighten all four stud nuts.

Installation Note: The steering side Downpipe is very closely tolerated to fit your car perfectly. Variations from car to car may require some mild repositioning of the downpipe to insure clearances to the steering assembly and the steering-side sub-frame mount. At this point you may want to turn your steering wheel while an assistant checks steering knuckle clearance. While these pipes are engineered to fit original spec cars, variations may require a bit of extra dimpling in the pipe. Always use a wide, round punch or arbor press for dimpling to avoid break through.

7. Once installed, choose a reference point to check the level of the two downpipes. If you are working on a level shop floor, measure from the bottom of the RH Downpipe outlet tube to the floor. This measurement should be equal to the distance from the same points on the LH Downpipe (+/- ¼”). If the downpipes are not at the same level, loosen the LH Downpipe slightly and reposition, checking your reference points for proper placement. Once in place, re-tighten all nuts.
8. Place one 2.5” Strap-style Clamp on the curved end of each Connector Pipe. Leave this clamp loose. All clamps should be positioned so that the tightening nut is closest to the center of the car and faces down for easy tightening.
9. Place both connector pipes on the X-pipe and Muffler Assembly. Make sure that the drain holes at the back of the mufflers are on the bottom. Do not tighten clamps at this time!
10. Place one 2.5” Strap-style Clamp on the straight end of each Connector Pipe. Leave this clamp loose. All clamps should be positioned so that the tightening nut is closest to the center of the car and faces down for tightening.

11. Place two X-pipe Hanger Springs in the slots in the bottom of the differential sub-frame.

12. Lift X-pipe Muffler Assembly with Connector Pipes loosely attached and place the straight end of the Connector Pipes over the outlet tubes on the Downpipes. Once seated, use a small vice grip to place the X-pipe Hanger Springs on the welded-on X-pipe Hangers.

13. Place a short length of wood under the mufflers perpendicular to the prop shaft and support with a jack. It will be necessary to place upward pressure on the system to place it correctly before tightening the clamps.

14. Raise the entire assembly until the mufflers are tucked into the body recesses with about 1.5” of body clearance.

The connector pipes should be near level. Do not worry if the X-pipe is touching the bottom of the differential sub-frame. Once upward pressure on the system is released the X-pipe will seek its correct level on the Hanger Springs.